The anchoring gear is the system the boat trusts every night at anchor. Windlass, chain and anchor can each be fine on their own; what matters is that they suit each other.
Matching is everything
- Chain and gypsy
- The chain's calibration must match the windlass gypsy. A mismatched chain jumps or jams.
- Chain wear
- Link diameter is measured, especially along the first, most-used metres; a thinned link is the chain's weakest point.
- Anchor
- Type and weight suited to the boat's length and displacement; the connector between anchor and chain as strong as the rest.
- Bitter end
- The chain should be tied to the locker with a line that can be cut in an emergency.
Windlass checks
- Motor, controls and remote.
- Breaker and cable size; a windlass draws high current.
- Deck mounting backing and sealing; the core beneath may be wet.
- Gypsy and clutch; manual operation.
Chain locker
The drain must be clear; a blocked drain lets water collect in the bow and rusts the chain. Chain length markings should be maintained.
How much chain?
To lie safely at anchor, the chain let out should be several times the depth; the ratio rises as wind and sea rise. The length of chain carried is planned for the depths of the bays to be visited. Marking the chain in metres lets you know how much is out, even at night or when tired. Markings wear off over time and are renewed at the start of the season.
Using the windlass properly
A windlass is designed to haul chain, not to pull the boat up to the anchor. Motoring gently towards the anchor while weighing reduces the load on the windlass and extends its life. At anchor, a chain lock or a snubber line keeps the chain load off the windlass, so wave loads go to a strong point on deck rather than the gypsy and motor.
The windlass's electrics
A windlass draws high current, so it needs a feed close to the batteries in cable of the right size, with an accessible breaker. Running the engine while using the windlass keeps battery voltage up. Corrosion in the remote and control cables is a common reason a windlass stops at an unexpected moment.
A spare anchor
On boats making long passages, carrying a second anchor with a rope-and-chain rode is good practice. If the main anchor is lost, or two anchors are needed, the spare set earns its place.
On survey
The windlass is run in both directions, the current drawn is measured, the gypsy and chain matched, and the deck mounting checked for moisture and backing. Chain wear is measured at the most-used first metres.
Setting the anchor
Before letting go, depth and seabed are checked, the boat is stopped head to wind and chain is paid out under control. Once the anchor bites, backing gently on the engine tests the hold, and the position is watched against a transit or reference mark.
Maintenance is simple but costly when neglected: rinsing the chain with fresh water now and then, cleaning the gypsy and clutch, keeping the chain locker drain clear and checking the anchor shackle pins are enough to keep the gear dependable.
A dependable anchoring set-up is the simplest route to a good night's sleep, and keeping it so is cheap and easy.